The Best Carabiners

1. Favofit Ultra Sturdy Carabiners

This carabiner is made from very durable materials. It is resistant to rust and made with aircraft-grade aluminum. It also doesn’t have any sharp edges. The D-shape design is famous for carabiners because it has a larger gate opening that makes it easier to clip things onto it. This carabiner also has a stainless steel wire hook, making it less likely to freeze shut or break.

This carabiner can be used for different things. For example, you can use it to attach a dog leash to something or as a keychain holder. The best thing about it is that it comes in a set of four, which is good for small groups of hikers or campers. If you want your car prepared for anything, you should look at the best water bottle to keep full of cold water.

2. Gold Lion Gear Aluminum Carabiners

This carabiner is perfect for outdoor use because it is made from rust-resistant and lightweight aluminum. It also has a spring-loaded gate that makes it easy to open and close.

These carabiners can hold up to 224 pounds. It is suitable for light-duty and casual use, like clipping water bottles or gears to your gym bag. Please do not use these carabiners for hanging hammocks or any gear where your body weight would put more than 224 pounds of pressure on it.

3. Gimars 3″ Carabiner

This D-shaped 3″ carabiner is durable and can hold a weight of up to 150 pounds. It is made from lightweight aircraft aluminum, which makes it resistant to rust. Its large gate opening is also helpful for clipping ropes and other items. However, it is not recommended for climbing because it does not have a high enough weight rating.

A spring-loaded gate can open and close quickly with just a thumb press. It locks back into place when not in use. It is estimated that it can open 5000 times without any problems. If you are concerned about becoming trapped on the side of the road, keep some of your best survival knives in your car.

4. Xinda Screwgate Locking Carabiners

This carabiner is strong. The long axis is the strongest, but the short axis and open gate side are still pretty strong. We can use this carabiner for climbing and other activities that happen at high altitudes.

The screw gates carabiner is easy to use. It is in an asymmetric D -shape with a 60-degree opening, providing enough clearance to clip easily. This carabiner also has screw locks that must be spun multiple times before they lock in place. Furthermore, an anti-slip anodized surface does not rust or frost, making it ideal for use outside. Having the best all-weather matches on hand is always a good idea when you’re out in nature.

5. Zeinze 3″ Carabiners

This lock is easy to open and close with one hand. It has a wide gate opening, making it suitable for clipping to things like your key ring or backpack.

The 8-pack comes with a stainless steel wire keychain. It makes it easier to lose the keys without breaking a sweat. It is also the only carabiner on this list that offers an accessory.

6. Outmate Aluminum D-Ring Locking Carabiners

This carabiner is very strong and made with rust-resistant anodized aluminum alloy. Its asymmetrical D-shape helps the weight of what you attach to it sit in the middle. It makes it suitable for attaching things to climbing gear but not as part of a hammock or for climbing itself.

If you need to clip something often, it’s better to choose a different carabiner. This one is sturdy but takes up to 12 turns to lock and unlock, so it might not be the best choice if you need to clip things often.

7. Petzl Oxan Carabiner

This carabiner from Petzl measures 4.37 inches in length and has an oval cross-section. This form contributes to a reduction in the amount of load shifting that occurs. The carabiner has a breaking strength of 38 kilonewtons, equal to 8,542 pounds. It makes it perfect for rappelling or tethering an anchor while climbing. Plus, the steel construction makes it more durable than aluminum carabiners.

This carabiner has a key lock design that prevents it from opening accidentally. It has two different locking systems, one that uses a screw and one that uses a twist lock. It also has the heaviest load rating on our list, but its gate clearance is lower than average. It means it is not as good with multiple knots.

Material & Durability

For carabiners, aircraft aluminum alloy is a good choice because it is lightweight and rust-resistant. It also has a weight rating of 25KN (5,620 pounds), which makes it great for use outdoors. These carabiners are also ideal for Master Points on top rope anchors for climbing.

Shape

The shape of a carabiner can have a significant impact on how it works. Our most popular carabiner type is the asymmetric D carabiner and the D-shaped carabiner with a straight, bent, or wire gate. These carabiners have a wide gate opening, making it easier to clip and close with one hand. They are also easier to apply the load on its major axis, which is where most of its weight rating is retained. Keep in mind that none of our picks come in a pear shape.

Locking Mechanism

Three locking carabiner mechanisms are wiregate, spring gate, and screw lock. Wiregate and spring gate carabiners are easy to use but have a low weight rating. Screw lock carabiners have a higher weight rating and are less likely to open accidentally.

Number/Type of Certifications

The CE and UIAA certifications mean that a carabiner has been tested by a safety governing body, and it has been proven to be strong and hold a certain weight. It gives us confidence that the carabiner will work as intended without snapping.

Ease of Use

When looking for a carabiner, find one with a spring or wire gate. It will make it easy to open and close without having to screw and unscrew the lock. The gate should also move at least 60 degrees so there is enough clearance.

Wild Country Helium

Helium is the gold standard for wire-gate carabiners. It is lightweight and supremely usable, with a wire gate and keylock nose. The flared “hood” over the notch in the nose means that life with the Helium is snag-free.

The Helium has the most significant gate clearance of any carabiner in our test. Due to its full size, it is manageable. Other companies have copied Helium, but Wild Country still does it best.

The only downside to Helium is the high price. The Wild Country company charges a lot of money for people to use them. They are the most expensive ones in our test.

DMM Phantom

Weight savings can often come at the cost of usability. For example, the Metolius carabiner is very light, but it is not as easy to use as other carabiners. The DMM Phantom is a lightweight carabiner that is easy to handle and user-friendly, just like regular-sized carabiners. However, it does not have a keylock nose, a feature found on the Black Diamond Oz and Petzl Ange. DMM does make a keylock version called the Chimera. Still, even in traditional form, the DMM Phantom was voted the winner.

The Phantom is easier to handle than the Oz or Ange, even though it has a smaller gate clearance. It might be because of its grip-friendly shape and straight spine. Testers found it hard to say why, but most thought it was because of those features.

With a weight of only 28 grams, the Phantom is lighter than any other carabiners we tested. And even though it has a traditional nose, we still recommend it.

Petzl Djinn

The Djinn is a durable basketball that you can rely on. It has extra grams of aluminum in the places where it needs it most. It makes for better handling and durability.

The Djinn was very durable when we tested it, and we believe it will last many years. It is a good value because it is affordable and a solid-gate carabiner. However, it is heavier than other carabiners in our test, so traders should look for lighter options.

Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Gate

Neither the most advanced nor the lightest Carabiner is the Mad Rock Ultralight. However, it is cheap and functional. It is tied for the cheapest Carabiner in our test with the similar Trango Phase. The Mad Rock received our value award because testers thought it was slightly more usable.

The “ultralight” description might be a bit overstatement, but this Carabiner still only weighs 31 grams. It is in the middle of the pack regarding usability, and we never found a reason to dislike it. However, our only caution is that the squared-off rope-bearing surface might cause more rope drag in quickdraws than some other carabiners.

We wouldn’t be happy if this were the only Carabiner we could use, but we would also not mind using it to rack cams on Ultralights. Mad Rock is not the wrong place to start if you want to save money.

Black Diamond Oz

The Oz is an appropriate choice for a carabiner. It weighs only 28 grams and has a sleek design and an ingenious hooded keylock nose. Because of this, you are selecting it for an award would be a wise decision.

The Oz wasn’t our favorite, despite being a good performer. Usability is one of its weaknesses; the rounded spine seemed slick and unpredictable, and the gate’s tension varied.

The Oz is still operating, but we didn’t feel particularly secure on board. Predictability appeals to us when we’re in the air, giving the DMM Phantom the advantage.

Camp Photon Wire

The Camp Photon has the highest gate clearance of all the wire gates we tested. The Photon’s bulky design was well-liked by testers with large hands, and its broad surfaces make for easy handling. The Photon is remarkably light for its size at 30 grams. Its gate, though, turned it on. The wire gate was beginning to lose a little of its springiness by the time testing was finished.

It happened with most wire gates, but the Photon showed more wear than other gates. It’s conceivable we got a dud, but it’s difficult to say.

For the price, the Photon isn’t too expensive to replace, but we would rather have a wire gate that we know is built to last. That’s a shame because Photon was otherwise a strong competitor.

Black Diamond Neutrino

The Neutrino is a common sight at any trad crag. It is Black Diamond’s most popular model and is often used with Camalots on racks.

As far as performance goes, the Neutrino is about average. It isn’t cumbersome, but it also isn’t very light. The durability seems good, and the handling is adequate but not great.

Like so many Black Diamond products, the motto for this one seems to be “do not offend, do not excel.” This wire gate is cheap and dependable, but better options are available.

Petzl Ange S

The Petzl Ange is a unique carabiner because it has a single rod of metal instead of the traditional wire-gate loop. Petzl claims that this makes the Carabiner more durable, although it is not as easy to use. The gate clearance on the Ange S is impressive for a 28-gram carabiner. However, we still found ourselves fumbling when clipping and unclipping it.

The high-tension gate is tough to open. The rubber at the gate’s base makes it a little bit better, but it’s still tough. The Ange design was excellent but didn’t do well with testers. It’s the second most expensive ‘biner in our test and doesn’t offer incredible value. Petzl makes a bigger version of the Ange (Ange L) that might work better, but it’s heavier and more expensive.

Trango Phase

The Phase carabiner is light, weighing in at only 30 grams. However, testers did not like the funky spine on the Carabiner. They found it harder to clip and did not think it was as good as the Mad Rock Ultralight Wire Gate carabiner, which is a bit more expensive but better quality.

Black Diamond Positron

The Black Diamond Positron is a carabiner veteran of sport crags. It didn’t do well in our testing. The wide, solid beams make it the heaviest weight of any carabiner in our test, but the gate still feels flimsy and inconsistent. Compared to the Petzl carabiners with solid gates, the Positron felt much less pleasant to use. There is no significant price advantage and a small weight penalty, so we don’t think there are many reasons to recommend it.

Metolius FS Mini II

The Mini II is the lightest Carabiner we tested, but it was also one of the most difficult to use. The gate clearance is very small, and the Mini feels like a toy in large hands. For daily use, we prefer a carabiner that is easier to use.

The Mini has some good features. After a small learning curve, it performs adequately. Some hardcore alpinists might argue that the Mini II is a good choice for an ultralight racking ‘biner or gear-side connector. However, we don’t think it will last very long. But it is blessedly cheap. So if you want to save a few ounces, the Mini II might be worth the trouble.

Carabiner Shapes Asymmetric D Shape

The most often used variety of carabiners is the asymmetric D carabiner. They are identical to standard Ds, except that one end is cut down. They end up being lighter as a result. They also have larger gate openings than regular D’s, which makes clipping them easier. However, they don’t have as much inside space as Ds or ovals of the same size.

Pear Shape

Pear-shaped carabiners have wide gate apertures, similar to the asymmetric D shape, to make it simple to clip ropes, knots, and equipment. They can be used at anchor points for top roping or multi-pitch climbing, but their main uses are for belaying and rappelling. These are called HMS carabiners; some even bear the HMS logo on their spines. According to HMS, the Carabiner has a broad, symmetrical top that complements a Münter hitch.

D Shape

D-shaped carabiners are suitable for most kinds of climbing. They hold the weight off-center towards the stronger side. It makes them stronger than oval carabiners, even though they are smaller and lighter.

Oval Shape

Oval carabiners are a versatile and affordable option. They’re not as strong as other shapes but offer more gear-holding capacity than D-shape carabiners. Oval carabiners are also symmetrical, which makes them ideal for use in rappelling.

Carabiner Gate Types
Straight Gate Carabiners

Straight gates are robust, practical, and simple to use. They are widely available and helpful for a variety of things. Carabiners with straight gates can be found on quickdraws, and they are often used to rack gear such as cams and stoppers. As the name suggests, they are straightforward from pivot point to end. They are spring-loaded like most other varieties, allowing for simple opening when pushed and automated closing when released.

Some keylock carabiners are also straight-gate carabiners. A keylock carabiner features a smooth notch where the nose of the Carabiner and the gate converge. It prevents the Carabiner from irritatingly catching on your harness gear loop, bolt hangers, and other slings. This feature will probably cost you a little more, but it’s a wonderful addition.

Bent Gate

These gates are strong and can be easily clipped onto a rope. They are usually used for quickdraws.

Just like straight-gate carabiners, some bent-gate carabiners can also be keylock carabiners.

Bent-gate carabiners typically have an asymmetric shape, making them easier to open than other types of gates.

Bent Gate

These gates are strong and can be easily clipped onto a rope. They are usually used for quickdraws.

Just like straight-gate carabiners, some bent-gate carabiners can also be keylock carabiners.

Bent-gate carabiners typically have an asymmetric shape, making them easier to open than other types of gates.

Carabiner Size

Carabiners are available in a variety of sizes. Larger carabiners are generally easier to handle and clip (they have larger gate openings) and can hold more gear inside. They’re typically utilized with belay and rappel systems. Smaller carabiners may be more challenging to clip, but they are lighter and take up less room on your rack.

You might wish to consider the open gate clearance while examining the size of a carabiner. This number tells you how wide the gate can open, plus the depth and shape of the bottom of the Carabiner below the gate. Generally speaking, smaller carabiners have less clearance.

You don’t want the gate too close to your finger, or it might get stuck. But you also don’t want it to be too deep, or it will be difficult to clip the Carabiner onto something. You want just enough clearance so that it is easy to clip.

Carabiner Weight

Generally speaking, the less weight you carry when climbing, the better. But lighter carabiners are not always the best choice. The smaller size of superlight carabiners can make them more challenging to use when fastening a bolt or rope. Additionally, they frequently have lower lifespans and worse gate-open strengths. Since the narrow ends can act as edges and wear away at your weighted rope as it slips through, narrow carabiners can also result in greater rope wear.

Carabiner Strength

Carabiners are rated for their strength in different directions. The ratings are usually marked on the spine of the Carabiner. Carabiners that meet UIAA and CE standards are plenty strong, as long as you use them correctly. The gate-open strength and minor-axis strength can vary among different carabiners.

You might use strength ratings when looking for a carabiner for climbing. Find the carabiners you like, then look at the strength ratings. The one with the highest rating might be the best one for you. Remember that smaller and lighter carabiners are usually weaker than bigger, heavier ones, but this is not always true.

Gate lash is when the dynamics of a climbing fall reduce the overall strength of a carabiner, making it more likely that the Carabiner will break. It can happen when:

• The inertia of a gate overpowers the spring pressure holding it in place.
• A gate runs into another thing.

Use carabiners with certain gate designs, such as a wire gate, to protect against this type of failure. You could also choose carabiners with locking gates or high gate-open strengths. Get recommendations from an experienced REI salesperson.

Which Carabiner To Use

Consider your intended use of the carabiners after learning how shape, gate type, size, weight, and strength affect performance.

A carabiner’s strengths for one sort of climbing may not be its strongest suits for another. For example, a small wire gate carabiner might be good for attaching gear to your rack or making lightweight trad quickdraws. However, this Carabiner might not be as easy to clip as a larger, heavier carabiner.

Most seasoned climbers favor carabiners with a particular gate style, size, and shape. Here are some general suggestions for that just starting:

Use of the Carabiner

• Rope climbing and belaying hefty locking carabiner in the form of a pear
• Quickdraws for sport climbing Asymmetrical D carabiners with wire gates, bent gates, or straight gates
• Climbing-specific quickdraws wire gate-equipped asymmetric D carabiners
• Stacking traditional equipment Oval, D, or asymmetrical carabiners

When looking for a carabiner, it can be helpful to go to a local REI or another climbing shop. You can try out different models and see how they feel in your hand. Test the ease of clipping and unclipping the carabiners, as well as the efficiency of the gates. To lock the carabiners, try locking and unlocking the gate several times (with one hand). Select products that are comfortable to use run smoothly, and are simple to maintain.